2015 Alain Voge - Cornas Vieilles Fontaines (1.5L)

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This has the density and power that is the hallmark of the vintage, with melted licorice snap and tar notes draped over a large-scale core of fig, blackberry and black currant paste flavors. The brooding finish shows a warm cast-iron accent streaking through. Best from 2022 through 2038. 550 cases made, 25 cases imported. -- JM

Only produced in top vintages (this is the first since 2012), the 2015 Cornas Vieilles Fontaines comes from 80-year-old vines within the La Fontaine lieu-dit. It's a tough wine to evaluate at this stage, as it's quite closed and reticent on the nose, showing some crushed-stone notes and typical granite-based austerity, but on the palate it shows great purity of fruit and vigor. It's full-bodied but tight-laced, focused on driving through the long finish like a thoroughbred down the stretch. Give it at least 5 years in the cellar.-JC

Opaque ruby. Mineral-accented aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry liqueur, licorice candy and vanilla, plus an exotic Indian spice nuance that gains strength as the wine opens up. At once weighty and energetic, offering densely packed black and blue fruit preserve flavors and hints of candied flowers, smoky minerals and spicecake. Smoothly blends power and energy and finishes pure and extremely long, featuring repeating spiciness and smooth, harmonious tannins.-JR