1998 Leoville Las Cases - St Julien (750ml)

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The 1998 has turned out to be one of the vintage's superb Medocs. It boasts an opaque black/purple color as well as a classic Leoville Las Cases display of lead pencil, gorgeously pure black raspberries and cherries, smoke, and graphite. A broad yet focused entry on the palate reveals firm tannin, medium to full body, superb concentration and purity, as well as a totally symmetrical mouthfeel. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025. RP

Medium ruby. Spicy, highly aromatic nose combines currant, lead pencil, licorice, minerals and roasted nuts. Dense, spicy and penetrating, with lovely clarity of fruit and considerable power. Quite suave and stylish. Finishes very long, with firm tannins that are quite fine for the year. "We'll prefer the '99 for the first ten years, but afterwards this '98 may be better," notes Jean-Hubert Delon.- Stephen Tanzer (5/21)