Three 1996s from Dom Perignon are special. After having compared original releases and OEnotheque bottlings across a number of vintages going back to 1964, I am increasingly of the belief that the most enjoyable Dom Perignons are impeccably stored bottles of the original release. The 1996 Vintage is coming along quite nicely. Early notes of tertiary complexity have begun to appear, adding considerable richness and breadth. This remains a Champagne of fabulous elegance that will offer highly rewarding drinking for decades. - Antonio Galloni